Sights downtown are few: the zócalo , known as the "Plaza Cívica", is the chief of them, recently refurbished with much ostentatious marble, fountains, and the very restrained, whitewashed San Marcos Cathedral . Its bell tower is one of the leading local entertainments: every hour a mechanical procession of the twelve apostles goes through a complicated routine accompanied by a carillon of 48 bells. At the side of the cathedral, the Plaza San Marcos is full of life, its handicraft market bustling with vendors from the highlands. In the main plaza, across Av Central, there's often free live music, especially at weekends. Also worth seeing is the Hotel Bonampak , whose lobby has copies of the Maya murals from Bonampak. On the way, between calles 9 and 10, you pass the clean and very popular Parque la Marimba , a favourite evening gathering-spot for strolling and listening to the marimba bands.

Slightly further afield, you could also head out to the Parque Madero , northeast of the centre, where the small Museo Regional de Chiapas (Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; US$1.50) displays artefacts and maps detailing the pre-Columbian groups living in Chiapas. Highlights include intricately carved human fencers from the ruins of Chiapa de Corzo. Botanical gardens and an Orquideario full of blooms native to the Chiapas jungle are in the same complex, reached along a shaded walkway. To get there, head north from the zócalo and then turn right onto Av 5 Nte Ote for 2km; or take a combi marked "Parque Madero" along Av Central.