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TODOS LOS SANTOS |
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On the new road along the west coast, just north of the Tropic of
Cancer, the farming town of TODOS SANTOS (All Saints) marks almost
exactly the halfway point between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz. It's also
the closest thing to an exception to all the rules about the cape region,
with some great beaches in easy reach, affordable hotels and a bus
service.
Founded in 1723 as a Jesuit mission, the fortunes of Todos Santos have
risen and fallen ever since, by turns a successful farming community,
then victim of an eighteenth-century indigenous uprising and introduced
European diseases, before gaining then losing status as a major place
for sugarcane growing. In the 1970s, with the creation of the
transpeninsular highway, throngs of surfers came in search of giant
waves, followed in the 1980s by an artistic crowd, many of whom settled
here. When Hwy-19 was subsequently completed, the town became more
easily accessed from La Paz and Los Cabos and now offers some of the
best surfing in Baja. There's also some great whale-watching to be had
from the shore: sit on any of the beaches in the winter months and you
are bound to see several of the creatures.
Today, the pleasant and leisurely paced town is home to a thriving
community of artists, with a popular week-long art festival each
February. There are plenty of galleries around for you to check out, and
if you feel like turning your own hand to being creative, you can join
any of the workshops , teaching you anything from writing to
watercolours, pottery, and even improvisational theatre. Check the local
monthly publication El Calendario for details, or look in the bookstore,
Juarez at Hidalgo, for El Tecolote Libros magazine. Take the historic
house tours , offered occasionally, and learn about the people and
events that have woven themselves into town lore; again, details are
posted around town.
As for beaches, Punta Lobos and San Pedrito are among several strung out
between here and Cabo San Lucas, the first few within half-an-hour's
walk: several blocks west from the centre is a dirt road marked with a
sign that reads "Aviso official" (if you can't find it, ask around),
which brings you to the south edge of Punta Lobos. From here, the rest
of the beaches line the coast for 10km south: San Pedro (also known as
Las Palmas ) is beyond Punta Lobos and is excellent for swimming; while
Los Cerritos , 12km south (50m beyond km 64), is also a good option for
swimming. Note that due to riptides, steeply shelving beaches and rogue
waves, only these last two beaches are safe for swimming .
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