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TLAXCALA |
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TLAXCALA , capital of the tiny state of the same name, is 100km west
of Mexico City and just 30km north of Puebla. As Cortés' closest ally in
the struggle against the Aztecs, the town suffered a very different fate
from that of Cholula, and one that in the long run has led to an even
more total disappearance of its ancient culture. For although the
Spanish founded a town here - now restored and very beautiful in much of
its original colonial glory - to the Mexicans Tlaxcala was a symbol of
treachery, and to some extent still is. Siding with Spain in the War of
Independence didn't help greatly either, and whether for this reason, or
for its genuine isolation, development has largely passed Tlaxcala by.
The town sits in the middle of a fertile, prosperous-looking upland
plain surrounded by rather bare mountains. At the centre you'll discover
an exceptionally pretty and very much rehabilitated colonial town,
comfortable but in the final analysis fairly dull. Most of the interest
lies very close to the zócalo, with its central bandstand, where the
terracotta and ochre tones of the buildings lend the city its tag of
Ciudad Roja , the Red City. Its appearance, slow pace and proximity to
the nation's capital have drawn a small but significant expat community,
though its impact on daily life is minimal.
The Town
One entire side of the zócalo is taken up by the Palacio de Gobierno (daily
8am-8pm; free), whose patterned brick facade is broken by ornate windows
and doorways. The building incorporates parts of a much earlier
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