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MEXICO TRAVEL DISCOUNT PACKAGE AND
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TICUL

 
Conveniently located 80km south of Mérida on Hwy-184, TICUL is an excellent base for exploring the Puuc region. You can head straight back to Mérida from here or else take the slightly longer route via the Maya sites of Mani and Mayapan . The town is an important centre of Maya shamanism as well as a pottery-producing centre and it's full of shops selling reproduction Maya antiquities, mostly too big to carry home. Visitors are welcome to watch the manufacturing process at the fabricas . The place is also renowned for its shoes and the streets are lined with shoe-shops. Despite all this, Ticul lives life at a slow pace, with more bicycles (and passenger-carrying triciclos ) than cars.

On the main road between Mérida and Felipe Carrillo Puerto in Quintana Roo, Ticul is an important transport centre, well served by buses to and from Mérida and with services to Cancún. If you're arriving by bus from Mérida, you'll be dropped in C 24 on the corner with C 25, behind the church. Buses from Campeche don't go through Ticul so you'll have to get off at Santa Elena to catch one of the colectivos that leave from the main square between about 6am and 7pm; the trip takes about thirty minutes. Trucks for Oxkutzcab and surrounding villages set off when they're full from the side of the plaza next to the church; combis for Mérida leave from further down the same street.

Even-numbered roads run north to south, odd numbers east to west. Calle 23 is the main street, with the plaza at its eastern end at C 26. Half a block from the plaza, the Sierra Sosa , C 26 no. 199-A (tel 9/972-0008; US$10-15), has basic rooms , with shower and fan (upstairs is better), and a few new a/c rooms with TV. The English-speaking manager is a good source of information, and you can make international calls from reception. Alternatives include the Hotel Plaza , C 23 no. 202 (tel 9/972-0484, fax 972-0026, www.hotelplazayucatan ; US$25-40), the most comfortable and centrally located of the lot with TV, telephone and a/c in all rooms, and the Hotel San Miguel (no phone; US$5-10), which has plain but very clean rooms at bargain rates.

The best of the restaurants is the original Los Almendros , C 23 no. 207, which serves superb local dishes in pleasant surroundings. The Loncheria Carmelita , two doors up from Hotel Sierra Sosa on C 26, does an inexpensive comida and Los Delfines

 
 
 

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