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TENANCINGO

 
TENANCINGO is 33km north of Ixtapan de la Sal and is the next village of any size along Hwy-55. It is an attractive enough small town with a decent small hotel that makes it a quiet alternative to Toluca or Taxco. But the chief reason to be here is its proximity to the amazing Aztec ruins at Malinalco , which can be reached by regular buses (every 15min; 30min), most of which continue on to Chalma. Liqueurs made from the fruit that grows in abundance on the plain surrounding Tenancingo, and finely woven traditional rebozos (shawls) are sold here, many of them produced at the lovely monastery of El Santo Desierto . This is also a big flower-growing region and as you pass through you'll see whole fields devoted to one bloom, and acres of land protected by plastic greenhouses.

Most buses stop around the corner of Victoria and Juárez, about five blocks south of the town's tiny zócalo. You can usually change straight onto a bus for Malinalco, but if you get stuck there is acceptable accommodation at Hotel Lazo , Victoria 10 (tel 7/402-0083; US$10-15), where rooms are a bit rough and don't have TV, though there is always hot water. Several small cafés serve Mexican staples cheaply.
 
 
 

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