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SAN JOSE DEL CABO

 
SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO , 33km east of Cabo San Lucas, is the older and altogether more traditional of the two resorts, founded in 1730 as a mission and growing into an agricultural centre and small port. Few traces remain of its earliest years, however, with the most of the older buildings dating from the 1880s and onward, yet although fast being swamped, the old plaza and the Paseo Mijares (which now leads to a modern hotel zone about 1km seaward) are still more or less intact, and there's a small local museum in the Casa de la Cultura. The numerous shops and restaurants that line the streets and shady courtyards are interesting enough, the latter offering a good variety of cuisines, but prices are high. Visitors, however, tend to come for the aquatic flora and fauna, and most of the hotels can help arrange tours, guides and equipment, but you'd be wise to shop around.

To get to the beaches it's a considerable walk down Mijares to the hotel zone, and on from there to find empty sand: they stretch for miles so keep walking until you find a quiet spot. Some 2km east is the lesser-known alternative Pueblo La Playa ( La Playita ), a hundred-year-old fishing village that offers numerous options for sportfishing; try Gordo Banks Pangas (tel 1/142-1147, www.gordobanks.com ). The waters at Gordo Banks here house the highest concentrations of gamefish in the waters of Los Cabos. The estuary just northeast of town is home to hundreds of birds and makes for an interesting hour or two, reached by kayak or on foot. The town celebrates it's annual festival the third week in March - as good a time as any to visit.
 
 
 

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