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SAN FELIPE

 
With so few places in northern Baja boasting a decent beach and reasonable public transport, the prospect of SAN FELIPE , a growing Sea of Cortés resort on a dead-end road 200km south of Mexicali, might seem attractive. But its appeal is limited: the entire bay is strung with RV parks, and the dunes between here and the encircling folded ridges of the San Pedro Martin mountains reverberate to the screaming engines of dune buggies and balloon-tyred trikes. If you are planning to continue south down Baja, then do just that. But San Felipe does have good swimming - at least at high tide - and if you are confined to the north, it's the best place to rent a catamaran or just relax for a day or so.

San Felipe first came to the attention of fishermen who, in the early 1950s, took advantage of the new tarmac road - built to serve the American radar station to the south on what is now called Punta Radar - to exploit the vast schools of tortuava, a species now fished onto the endangered list. Since the 1980s, the fishing village has grown to accommodate the November-to-April influx of holiday-makers from north of the border and college students on Spring Break. Apart from lying on the beach, you can rent dirt bikes and trikes from a couple of places along the malecón (around US$20 an hour), catamarans (similar price; just ask along the beach wherever you see one), or indulge in a little sport fishing on tours from a couple of places at the northern end of the malecón.

If the road through the cactus desert south of here to Hwy-1 ever gets improved to the point that it can be negotiated by low-clearance vehicles, this could become an interesting alternative route to southern Baja, but for the moment the hamlet of Puertecitos , 85km south (no public transport), is as far as ordinary cars can get - and even then with difficulty.
 
 
 

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