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PROGRESO

 
First impressions of PROGRESO - a working port with a vast concrete pier - are unprepossessing, but the beach is long and broad with fine white sand (though the water's not too clean) and it makes for a pleasant day out from Mérida. The shorefront behind the beach is built up all the way to Puerto Chicxulub , an unremarkable fishing village some 5km away, and a walk between the two takes you past the mansions of the old henequen exporters, interspersed with modern holiday villas and condominiums.

Streets in Progreso are confusingly numbered using two overlapping systems: one has numbers in the 70s and 80s, the other in the 20s and 30s. However, it's a small place, and not difficult to find your way around. The tourist office (Mon-Fri 8am-2pm, Sat 8am-1pm; tel 9/935-0114), in the Casa de la Cultura on C 80, Progreso's main street, is not terribly useful though you may be able to pick up copies of free magazines, Playa Progreso and Puerto Progreso , which have good maps of the town and coastline. There are a couple of banks both with ATMs and an internet café on C 80. Progreso doesn't have any backpacker or luxury accommodation though there are a few moderately priced places to stay on Av Malecón, which runs along the seafront between the beach and the hotels. The less-expensive hotels are a few roads back. Best bets include Real del Mar , Av Malecón, near C 19 (tel 9/935-0798; US$15-25), which has clean simple rooms with bathrooms; Tropical Suites , Av Malecón 143 (tel 9/935-1263; US$15-25), which has some suites with kitchens; and Hotel San Miguel , C 78 and C 28 (tel 9/935-1357; US$10-15), which has basic but clean rooms.

For eating , try the seafood snacks served at Sol y Mar , Av Malecón at C 80, Flamingos , also on the Malecón and for cheap comida corriente, the town's small friendly market has several good comedors .
 
 
 

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