Arriving at any of the bus terminals , you'll be on Juárez, where the highway comes into town. If you plan to leave the same day, particularly on a first-class bus, get your onward or return ticket on arrival. The airport is 5km north, in a dusty settlement called Pakal Ná. Walk less than 100m to the highway to flag down a passing cab (US$2) to town - the airport taxis themselves will charge three times this.

Palenque's three main streets, avenidas Juárez, 5 de Mayo and Hidalgo, all run parallel to each other and lead straight up to the zócalo, the Parque Central. There is a tourist office in the Plaza de Artesanías on Juárez, a block below the zócalo, but all the staff can do is hand out a street map and some tour leaflets. You'll get better information from one of the recommended tour operators or from Palenque's own interesting and very informative website, www.palenquemx.com . The post office is on Independencia, a block from the plaza; and there's a laundry on 5 de Mayo, opposite the Hotel Kashlan . Several places offer email connection ; try Cibernet , on Independencia, near 20 de Noviembre, or Red Maya on Juárez near the Posada Shalom .

The banks on Juárez are well used to changing travellers' cheques, but service is as slow as ever - you're better off using the ATMs . Alternatively, many of the travel agencies , also on Juárez, will change dollars or travellers' cheques; commission varies but it's considerably quicker than at the banks.

Leaving Palenque by bus , there are surprisingly few direct services to Mérida (9hr): ADO has departures via Campeche at 8am and at 7pm and 9pm, Maya de Oro at 10pm, and there are a couple of second-class services. There's a first-class departure for Oaxaca (14hr) at 5.30pm; Cancún (12hr) has two first-class departures (via Chetumal and Playa del Carmen ), at 5pm and 8pm, and there are a couple of overnight buses to Mexico City (17hr). Tuxtla (7hr) has first- and second-class departures at least hourly, all calling at Ocosingo and San Cristóbal (5hr). ADO has plenty of buses to the main transport hub of Villahermosa (2hr 30min), and you may find it easier to get there and change for your onward journey.

Transportes Comitán y Lagos de Montebello, on Velasco Suárez, just past the market, has services down the Usumacinta valley for Bonampak , and Frontera Corozal (for Yaxchilán, and Bethél in Guatemala, some services continue all round the Frontier Highway to Comitán . Combis Río Chancala, on 5 de Mayo also have services along the Usumacinta valley as far as Bememérito . Aerocaribe flies from the airport 5km north of the town to Mérida, Cancún and Villahermosa, and to Flores (Guatemala). Check with one of the recommended travel agents we've listed