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MULEGE |
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Some 60km to the south of Santa Rosalía lies MULEGÉ , a small
village on the site of an ancient mission. Like San Ignacio, it's a real
oasis. Tucked into a lush valley, the village sits underneath a myriad
of palms on the north bank of the Rio Santa Rosalia. Roughly 960km south
of the US border, Mulegé has a definite feel of the tropics, a fruit-growing
centre that's also popular with kayakers. The town is also one of the
most peaceful and laid-back in Baja, helped in part by some superb
beaches strung out along the coast to the south. Yet again you'll miss
out on the best of them without some means of getting about, but here
hitching is at least a realistic possibility - many visitors commute to
the beaches daily, particularly during the high season (mid-Oct to April).
There's not a great deal to see in Mulegé, though you could check out
the unkempt Museo Mulegé (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm; free), set on a hillside
above town; head a couple blocks away from the centre towards the ocean,
then follow the trail leading up the hill to the museum. A former prison
built nearly a hundred years ago it became known as the "prison without
doors", as it allowed its inmates to work in town in the mornings and
afternoons. The Mission Santa Rosalia , founded in 1705 and completed
sixty years later, has been restored and is worth a visit however -
sitting atop a hill overlooking Mulegé, the view from above the palms is
spectacular. Follow Zaragosa south underneath the highway bridge until
you see the dirt road that climbs to the mission.
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