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MAIL AND TELECOMMUNICATIONS |
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Although on the face of it Mexico has reasonably
efficient postal and telephone systems, phoning
home can be a hazardous business, while packages
have a tendency to go astray in both directions.
One thing to watch is the outrageous cost of
international phone calls, faxes and telegrams -
call collect or use a calling card wherever
possible
Mexican postal services ( correos )
are reasonably efficient. Airmail to the capital
should arrive within a few days, but it may take
a couple of weeks to get anywhere at all remote.
Post offices (generally Mon-Fri 9am-6pm,
Sat 9am-noon) usually offer a poste restante/general
delivery service: letters should be addressed to
Lista de Correos at the Correo Central (main
post office) of any town; all mail that arrives
for the Lista is put on a list updated daily and
displayed in the post office, but held for two
weeks only. You may get around that by sending
it to "Poste Restante" instead of "Lista de Correos" and having letter-writers put "Favor de
retener hasta la llegada" (please hold until
arrival) on the envelope; letters addressed thus
will not appear on the Lista. Letters are often
filed incorrectly, so you should have staff
check under all your initials, preferably use
only two names on the envelope (in Hispanic
countries, the second of people's three names,
or the third if they've four names, is the
paternal surname and the most important, so if
three names are used, your mail will probably be
filed under the middle one) and capitalize and
underline your surname. To collect, you need
your passport or some other official ID with a
photograph. There is no fee.
American Express also operates an
efficient mail collection service, and has a
number of offices all over Mexico - most useful
in Mexico City, where the address for the most
central branch is: c/o American Express, Reforma
234, Col. Juarez, México D.F. They keep letters
for a month and also hold faxes. If you don't
carry their card or cheques, you have to pay a
fee to collect your mail, although they don't
always ask.
Sending letters and cards is also easy enough,
if slow. Anything sent abroad by air should have
an airmail (por avión) stamp on it or it
is liable to go surface. Letters should take
around a week to North America, two to Europe or
Australasia, but can take much longer (postcards
in particular are likely to be slow). Anything
at all important should be taken to the post
office and preferably registered rather
than dropped in a mail box, although the new
special airmail boxes in resorts and big cities
are supposed to be more reliable than ordinary
ones.
Sending packages out of the country is
drowned in bureaucracy. Regulations about the
thickness of brown paper wrapping and the amount
of string used vary from state to state, but
most importantly, any package must be checked by
customs and have its paperwork stamped by at
least three other departments, which may take a
while. Take your package (unsealed) to any post
office and they'll set you on your way. Many
stores will send your purchases home for you,
which is a great deal easier. Within the country,
you can send a package by bus if there is
someone to collect it at the other end.
Telegram offices (Telegrafos) are
frequently in the same building as the post
office. The service is super-efficient, but
international ones are very expensive, even if
you use the cheaper overnight service. In most
cases, you can get across a short message for
less by phone or fax.
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Local phone calls in Mexico are cheap,
and some hotels will let you call locally for
free. Coin-operated public phones, rapidly
disappearing, also charge very little for local
calls. Internal long-distance calls are
best made with a phonecard. These are available
from telephone offices and stores near phones
that use them (especially in bus and train
stations, airports and major resorts). Many
newer public phones say they accept credit cards;
in practice, however, they often don't.
Slightly more expensive are casetas de
teléfono , phone offices where someone will
make the connection for you. There are lots of
them, as many Mexicans don't have phones of
their own: they can be simply shops or bars with
public phones, indicated by a phone sign outside,
in which case you may only be allowed to make
local calls, but many are specialist phone and
fax places displaying a blue-and-white Larga
Distancia (long-distance) sign. You're
connected by an operator who presents you with a
bill afterwards - once connected, the cost can
usually be seen clicking up on a meter. There
are scores of competing companies, and the new
ones, like Computel, tend to be better; many
take credit cards. Prices vary, so if you're
making lots of calls it may be worth checking a
few out. There are casetas at just about every
bus station and airport.
Wherever you make them from, international
calls are fabulously expensive - using a
phonecard is probably the cheapest option,
though even the highest denomination ones won't
last long; next best rates are from a caseta (though
costs vary more than you'd expect, so shop
around); calling from a hotel is very
extravagant indeed. Charges vary a great deal,
but typical caseta prices are US$3 a minute to
call the US, £4 a minute to the UK. If you plan
to make international calls, by far the best
plan is to arm yourself in advance with a charge
card or calling card that can be used in Mexico;
you'll be connected to an English-speaking
operator and will be billed at home at a rate
that is predictable (if still high). You should
be able to get through to the toll-free numbers
from any working public phone.
Next best is to call collect ( por
cobrar ). In theory you should be able to
make an international collect call from any
public phone, by dialling the international
operator (tel 09) or getting in touch with the
person-to-person direct dial numbers we've
listed, though it can be hard to get through. At
a caseta there may be a charge for making the
connection, even if you don't get through, and a
hotel is liable to make an even bigger charge.
Faxes can be sent from (and received at) many
long-distance telephone casetas: again the cost
is likely to be astronomical
The Internet is booming in
Mexico - most urban school children are
computer-literate and public access facilities
are springing up all over the place. Internet
cafés are easy to find in all the larger
cities and the level of service is usually
excellent, although servers tend to crash with
greater frequency than they do at home. In
smaller towns and villages, such facilities are
still rare. Prices start at around US$1 per hour
and can be inflated to five times that amount in
touristy areas. If you are in such an area, look
for cheaper Internet cafés around the town
centre that are frequented by the locals and
avoid those in the luxury hotel zones. Internet
facilities in large cities are usually open from
early morning until late at night, but in
smaller towns they have shorter opening hours
and close altogether at weekends
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Pretty much anywhere with a significant
English-speaking presence, you'll be able to
seek out copies of Mexico City's
English-language daily The News , a
frumpy, uninspiringly-written, US-oriented organ.
There are also free bulletins in English that
can be picked up in Mexico City and anywhere
with a sizeable tourist population - either in
large hotels or from the tourist office - and
Time and Newsweek are widely
available, too.
Few domestic newspapers carry much
foreign news, and what there is mainly Latin
American; they are often lurid scandal sheets,
full of violent crime depicted in full colour.
Each state has its own press, however, and they
do vary: while most are little more than
government mouthpieces, others can be
surprisingly independent. Probably the best
national paper, if you read Spanish, is the new
Reforma , which although in its infancy
has already established an excellent reputation
for its independence and political objectivity.
Also worth a read is La Jornada , which
with its unashamedly left-wing agenda, is quite
daringly critical of government policy,
especially in Chiapas, and whose journalists
regularly face death threats as a result. As the
press has gradually been asserting its
independence since 1995, subjects such as human
rights, corruption and drug trafficking are
increasingly being tackled, but journalists face
great danger if they speak out, not only from
shady government groups but also from the drug
traffickers. In 1997 for example, three
journalists were murdered and five abducted;
many more were victims of lawsuits under
Mexico's punitive defamation laws.
On Mexican TV you can watch any number
of US shows dubbed into Spanish - it's most
bizarre to be walking through some shantytown as
the strains of the Dynasty theme tune
come floating across the air.
Far and away the most popular programmes are
the telenovelas - soap operas that
dominate the screens from 6pm to 10pm and pull
in audiences of millions. Each episode seems to
take melodrama to new heights, with nonstop
action and emotions hammed-up to the maximum for
the riveted fans. Plot lines are like national
news while telenovela stars become major
celebrities, despite their ludicrously
over-the-top acting styles.
Cable and satellite are now widespread,
and even quite downmarket hotels offer numerous
channels, many of them American.
Radio stations in the capital and
Guadalajara (among others) have programmes in
English for a couple of hours each day, and in
many places US broadcasts can also be picked up.
The BBC World Service in English can be picked
up by radios with short wave on 5975kHz in the
49m band, especially in the evening; on
15,220kHz in the 25m band, especially in the
morning; and on 17,840kHz, especially in the
afternoon. Other possible frequencies include:
6135kHz, 6175kHz, 6195kHz, 9590kHz and 9895kHz.
The Voice of America broadcasts on 1530kHz,
1580kHz, 5995kHz, 6130kHz, 9455kHz and
13,470kHz.
The world service website at
www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice lists all the
world service frequencies around the world
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