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LORETO |
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LORETO is a far bigger town than Mulegé, on the site of the earliest
permanent settlement in the Californias. Founded in 1697 as the head of
the Jesuit missions to California, and later taken over by the
Franciscans, it was in practice the administrative capital of the entire
territory for some 130 years until a devastating hurricane struck in
1829. More recently it has been a popular escape for fishing and diving
enthusiasts, and nowadays it's enjoying something of a renaissance,
boosted by the development of southern Baja California as a whole. A
super-resort along the lines of Cancún was planned some 10km south of
town - an airport laid out, roads and electricity put in - but for a
long time things went no further as priorities were switched elsewhere.
As of now there's the Stouffer Presidente hotel, a tennis centre and the
beginnings of further construction, but mostly Nopoló (as the result
will be known) seems deserted. The main upshot seems to be that downtown
Loreto itself has been spruced up in expectation, and that prices have
risen accordingly. There is, however, the tidy, if impersonal malecón,
Boulevard Lopez Mateos, backing the tolerable town beach , and, with
transport, you can reach some more great stretches of sand a few miles
to the south - and good camping territory, too.
The original mission church is still standing and, though heavily
restored after centuries of earthquake damage, its basic structure -
solid, squat and simple - is little changed. The inscription over the
door, which translates as "The head and mother church of the missions of
upper and lower California" attests to its former importance, as does
the Baroque altarpiece originally transported here from Mexico City.
Next door a small museum (daily except Tues 9am-6pm; US$1.25) chronicles
the early conversion and colonization of Baja California, and houses a
declaration of Loreto as the historical capital of the Californias.
Loreto is yet another of superb place for diving and kayaking . Las
Parras (tel 1/135-0900, lasparras@loretoweb.com.mx ), at Madero 16 next
to the Café Ole , is an established if pricey tour operator, and can set
you up with gear for diving, kayaking and snorkelling. A two-tank dive
will run cost you US$75, a full eight-hour day of kayaking US$25. They
also do tours to see cave paintings and whales, though these are far
pricier than those from San Ignacio. Baja Outpost , which is also a bed-and-breakfast,
can also set you up with diving equipment.
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