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CAUTLA

 
Some 27km southeast of Cuernavaca, and an hour by bus, lies CUAUTLA , really just a small regional town of limited consequence except for being the burial place of Emiliano Zapata . The Plazuela de la Revolución del Sur, a block south of the zócalo, surrounds a huge bronze statue of him standing in heroic pose, moustachioed with broad-brimmed sombrero, a bandoleer across his shoulder and clutching a rifle in one hand and a proclamation in the other declaring "Tierra y Libertad" ("land and freedom").

Back on the zócalo, there's minor interest at the Casa de Morelos (Tues-Sun 9am-6pm; US$2.50, free on Sun), a beautiful colonial mansion and gardens containing archeological finds and items of local historical interest. Three blocks further north along Los Bravo, Cuautla's former train station is now home to the Museo José Maria Morelos y Pavón (Tues-Sun 9am-6pm; US$0.25) mainly tracing the Independence movement in the state of Morelos. Of more interest to train buffs is the 1904 steam locomotive that draws carriages once used by Zapata along a kilometre-long section of track (Sat & Sun 5-7pm; US$0.60) here.

Cuautla also has something of a reputation for its thermal spas , and there are several large complexes a little way out from the centre. The emphasis is more on swimming than luxuriating, but for around US$3 you could easily while away an hour or two at Agua Hedionda: look for the dedicated purple-and-white buses that rumble through town and jump aboard (around a ten-minute trip).
 
 
 

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